cabalgata

my new life goals: a horse, a dog, and the atacama

early monday (22.06.) morning we got up to start our 2 day horse ride in the desert. it was just me, steffi, our guide, Roberto, and of course, 3 horses. and also 2 awesome dogs from the ranch that followed us.

We cantered/galloped a few times, and wow, it was crazy. I’ve only cantered before under more controlled circumstances, you know, in circles, under a roof. Or outside with summer camp horses who go short distances and then quit. But this horse just took off and wouldn’t stop, and was way faster than any other horse I’ve been on, it was so awesome. Actually the first day I was totally taken by surprise and discombobulated, but the second day I was better at it.

We rode through areas where the pre-Incan peoples used to hang out, there were millions and millions of pottery shards, and also a few bones, and ruins/walls remaining:

Our “camp” was at a half-finished building in the middle of nowhere which I guess belongs to the ranch. The ranch people drove out with the supplies we needed, our tent, and also dinner. After talking a bit with Roberto we discovered that he is slightly crazy… he keeps bringing up blood circulation and “equilibrium’ as the answer to all ills. The next day at lunch he was talking about “photons” and the 4 alien races, and that Jesus was an extra-terrestrial. Smile and nod, smile and nod… Also, he is the first person in the world to guess that I am around 30 years old, and so obviously I have to hate him for that.

We had the most amazing night sky, I’ve never seen so many stars, and the Milky Way too! The Atacama is supposed to be one of the best places on earth to stargaze. Also, it is so incredibly silent. If you are not making noise yourself, there is none.

It got really cold at night, I was freezing, even though I was wearing all my clothes on top of my pyjamas, but the sleeping bags that we borrowed from the hogar weren’t so good. When we woke up the next morning, all the water jugs were frozen.

i had a hard time taking good pictures because a) i was on a moving horse and b) the sun was very strong and bright and all the pictures were washed out.

The scenery was amazing, we mainly rode through the oasis the first day and the second day we were in the desert all day, in the cordillera de la sal. We rode through ravines and up sand dunes, and on a scary little path with a million-meter drop-off to the side.

It doesn't look so scary in the picture, but our guide was really impressed with us on that bit, since we didn’t even bat an eyelash. Supposedly those wimpy women are always screaming and dismayed at that part. Whatever. Now he is convinced that all German women are hardcore.

After the beauty and silence of the desert, once we got back to San Pedro, I thought the town, which I had found so cute before, looked so squalid…and the tourists were even uglier.

We were groaning and moving like little old ladies for days afterward.

All in all, it was utterly amazing, and one of the best things I’ve ever done, I’m so glad I didn’t give up on the idea. And I want to go back.

pictures: http://chile.marahtyler.com/#21.0